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Mine was gold too! Same model number. Before photos on my website, www.djdlabs.com/1950s-masterguard-wind-up-fire-alarm/

Thank you very much!

Sound like the starter selonoid is sticking, and keeping +12V to the gen/start windings. Check with a volt meter to make sure it is disconnecting once the generator has started. I have a few scematics on my website at the bottom and manuals if that helps. If no feel free to reach out in the comments or go to my about page to send me a contact, and I can help out. My circuit is very simple and very manual, it just has a push button that powers the start relay to send 12V to the starter/generator windings, once it is running, and I let go of the button, that shuts off the rlay, and the AC Power goes to the output, nothing is automated or sensored. To shut off power, I remove 12V from the coil for the ignition circuit. Same power I use for the fuel pump. Let me know if you would like me to try and draw up a scematic!

@@DJDAudio The problem turned out to be a bad stop relay. Thanks for your videos and website.

Glad you found the Channel! I have a lot of new content I am working on getting published soon.

Good idea! Thank you.

Thanks for the kind words! The tab system is interesting and complex! As for the shift, there are 3 points of 'pivot' or links that make the carage 'lift' or shift up and gravity pulls it back down, as these gum up it make the 'up' and 'down' not work as smooth or fast as they should and the shift gets odd. On the bottom right and left side of the carrage are metal 'U' shaped bars, try to loosen the scre on those slightly maybe a half turn. This may help get things moving. Also you can put some light machine oil on them joints and while lifting and pushing back down on the carage with one hand, push the shift button with the other to work the oil in and get it moving free again. Best of luck on your restoration! Take LOTS of pictures as you take thinks appart! trust me ha!

@@DJDAudio these machines are incredible! I fiddled around with some of the mechanics and the shift system came back to life! Also I don't know if you have any insight into why my letters are all capitals? My brief Google search claims that this may be military typeface! Exciting that this typewriter may have been used in WW2.

@@maxeffort325 So glad you got it working! You are beyond my knoledge here, but I can recomend this great group that would love to answer these! They get questions about odd typeface all the time! facebook.com/groups/4770669677

@@DJDAudio Thank you! I'll give them a message

Black and white was a choice to prevent against video auto tagging of the disk artwork. but that may just be me being paranoid! here is a link! www(dot)dbpoweramp(dot)com

I do! Good eye. Fun place to work as well!

If I ever go to Rivers again I'll have to stop by the museum. I'll check out your other videos again. Thanks.

It is most odd, I just made a quick video for you to show you the process! ruclips.net/video/htaI32OrQtU/видео.htmlsi=KGcn4hizXQBoaR79

I want to make into a solo type firepit

@@bob-owen I uploaded this Video to show how I did it, I removed the rubber cap, cleaned off the vacuum grease with a rag, than threaded in an Eye bolt that fit, 1/4-20 maybe. than pulled up to break the seal and let the air into the tank, this released the vacuum, and the plug came all the way out so you know it is now safe. NOTE: it will take around 14.7lbs of force to pull the plug out. ruclips.net/user/shortsExLtOBUM3J4?si=lRYzYkaV47J435MZ

I have since learned this as well, thank you much for the clerification!

Fantastic information, thank you! And that does make sense.

I notticed that in my photos, this could also be why they stopped using it!

Total Dollars. So a cab driver would record Units in the beginning of their shift, and the end, incase the cab company pays them on commission. other cab companies would just essentially rent the cab to a driver for $XXX per day and whatever they collected, they would keep.

These can be tricky, one of the many hundreds of moving parts inside may be stuck or sticky! Depends how it is stuck, if the cranks goes all the way down and back up you just need to reset the total: On mine I have to hit just the 1 key far right side, crank it in, than hold down the TOTAL button with thump while pulling the crank down, than letting go with thumb as I continue the crank handle down, this will 'total out' the machine an clear the register! If the crank handle will not return, you may have a stuck key or too, you may need to try and push a few keys around the one that is down and try to work up the stuck one, this may free it up. If not you may have to pull the cover and look for anything caught in the mech, the old felt or old paper can get caught some times! Hope this helps!

@@DJDAudio Thanks!! I did some continuity tests and added the results to the link in the video description, not sure if you had a chance to look at them. My yellow goes to COMMON on the micro switch.

@@DJDAudio Took your kind advice and got some things working. Still have to figure how to fake the speedometer cable spinning. Anyhow- Thanks! Vid of it working a bit: ruclips.net/video/viw7dtUrjns/видео.htmlsi=E5WWHa-gfQismIl5

This is great info, thank you for sharing!

Thanks for input! I had never seen this before, and was amazing to discover it. I figure if I like it others will too, so I shared it! Yet to see this replicated on here though, would love to know if this is a normal result. In my research I found that solid nitrogen is an annoying byproduct of working with liquid helium ha! I do love to dabble in anything I find interesting, and I always have a love for the science extremes where there is still some 'unknown' or fun properties of mater to explore! So for sure will be doing more videos like this. I just built up a new rig for making my own liquid nitrogen in volume, you may like! www.djdlabs.com/liquid-nitrogen-maker/

@@DJDAudio Cool! then I will subscribe for more!

I wish I took a picture, There is almost nothing inside, there is a sealed metal box with wind up spring in it, two gears, and a metal wheel that spins with rotating hammers on it that strike the bell. The center pin pushes down to a friction pad to prevent it from spinning. I will have to take it apart again, and upload a photo to my website! Thanks for the suggestion!

@@DJDAudio We bought a dozen 35 years ago, always wondered, never had the guts to tear one apart because they'd all been wound up and the clatter they make will wake the unconscious.

This was a tough call on my part, the unit dates back to the 70's and is well past its serviceable lifespan. A replacement filament for this unit is also $500+ And they will not referb one if you do not have an expensive service contract with them. That and taking it apart and contaminating it like I did would mean months of decontamination and time to bake it out and pump it back down to a usable vacuum conditions. So I felt it was better served to take apart and be able to show the inside of this unit as an educational tool or entertainment for those who are curious. For not every day you get to rip open a million dollar machine just to explore for fun! I do plan to use parts of this in many other projects so it was by no means a waste of hardware! The last scope I took apart I used to make my own liquid nitrogen maker, and a fusor! Hope that helps explain my motivation for this! ... P.S. Part of the agreement for getting items like this is often that they can never be 'used as intended' again aka destroyed.

Almost like a CRT engineer was given an unlimited budget ad told to have at it! ha! I have a lead on multiple machines, but these always have such long timelines and paperwork stacks to acquire lol The day I can get an entire scope I promise I will film the entire tear down to the very last bolt!