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DJDAudio
Добавлен 22 дек 2006
DIY Robot Welder
Quick test of my own DIY welding robot, wrote my own code to run it, and I will start by saying, I do not know anything about welding, hell the gun is held on with zip ties ha! But the results are much better than I could ever do by hand!
More on the project here,
www.djdlabs.com/teach-a-robot-to-weld/
More on the project here,
www.djdlabs.com/teach-a-robot-to-weld/
Просмотров: 118
Видео
What's inside a scanning electron microscope?
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Up close photos and more here, www.djdlabs.com/inside-a-scanning-electron-microscope/
E.S. Ritchie & Sons Boston Nautical Ship Compass 1926 - Restored
Просмотров 309 месяцев назад
NOTE: Only a display compass should be polished like this, for in actual ship use, the shine would be a great distraction to the operator. They are most often matt or black painted to prevent reflections. More info and picture on my website . www.djdlabs.com/e-s-ritchie-sons-boston-nautical-ship-compass-1926-restoration/
CSC Edge of space launch from PNC park. Circa 10-5-2015
Просмотров 319 месяцев назад
I put this video together from a project I took part in to send a mascot to the edge of space!
Fanuc robot DIY welding program with frames setup and running.
Просмотров 6811 месяцев назад
The entire project with more info and the program can be found on my website. www.djdlabs.com/teach-a-robot-to-weld/
Test of DIY robot welding algorithm.
Просмотров 4811 месяцев назад
Test of DIY robot welding algorithm.
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - Tested, I was wrong!
Просмотров 32411 месяцев назад
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - Tested, I was wrong!
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - After restoration.
Просмотров 19911 месяцев назад
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - After restoration.
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - Before restoration.
Просмотров 62611 месяцев назад
1950's MasterGuard Wind up fire alarm. ( Heat alarm ) - Before restoration.
Westinghouse Rare clear demo florescent lamp.
Просмотров 57Год назад
Westinghouse Rare clear demo florescent lamp.
1947 General Electric Vortalex fan - Running
Просмотров 343Год назад
1947 General Electric Vortalex fan - Running
1947 General Electric Vortalex fan - After Restoration
Просмотров 305Год назад
1947 General Electric Vortalex fan - After Restoration
Super Marvel Violet Ray - Introduction and demo
Просмотров 577Год назад
Super Marvel Violet Ray - Introduction and demo
Very unique Ricoh expandable Parabolic camera flash.
Просмотров 46Год назад
Very unique Ricoh expandable Parabolic camera flash.
Underwood Model S finished restoration.
Просмотров 169Год назад
Underwood Model S finished restoration.
DIY Xmas light show with Processing and DMX
Просмотров 137Год назад
DIY Xmas light show with Processing and DMX
Relaxing nature - Hawking hills State park.
Просмотров 13Год назад
Relaxing nature - Hawking hills State park.
Basketball robot ( Now in SportsWorks ) At the Carnegie Science Center
Просмотров 199Год назад
Basketball robot ( Now in SportsWorks ) At the Carnegie Science Center
DIY Adept Cobra SCARA robot control with Arduino - Motor test
Просмотров 140Год назад
DIY Adept Cobra SCARA robot control with Arduino - Motor test
I have one of these that came from my house. I found this video doing a search. Mine is gold though, not silver. Model MG 40 FT.
Mine was gold too! Same model number. Before photos on my website, www.djdlabs.com/1950s-masterguard-wind-up-fire-alarm/
The 4 1/2 inch outlet on the front is called the steamer outlet in the firefighting world. It goes back to the days when they actually used steam powered engines to pump water. I am a retired water supply operator and also a retired volunteer fire fighter. Your description of the hydrant is pretty much spot on.
Thank you very much!
Very nice. Thank you for sharing. I have the same model, and about to restore it soon. I did remove the top part many years ago, but now I just can’t remember how I did it. It’s going to be interesting. Thank you for sharing. I never knew how to use it. Just kept it as a decoration. Now I know what I can do with it. Well done.
I have the same generator. Recently I had a failure where when I turned off the switch, the motor kept running or so I thought. The starter/generator was turning the motor. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Now, even with the switch off, the starter/generator turns the motor. When I turn the switch to run, or start, the motor won't start. Do you know a failure mode that could cause this? I would be interested in the electrical/ignition modification you did.
Sound like the starter selonoid is sticking, and keeping +12V to the gen/start windings. Check with a volt meter to make sure it is disconnecting once the generator has started. I have a few scematics on my website at the bottom and manuals if that helps. If no feel free to reach out in the comments or go to my about page to send me a contact, and I can help out. My circuit is very simple and very manual, it just has a push button that powers the start relay to send 12V to the starter/generator windings, once it is running, and I let go of the button, that shuts off the rlay, and the AC Power goes to the output, nothing is automated or sensored. To shut off power, I remove 12V from the coil for the ignition circuit. Same power I use for the fuel pump. Let me know if you would like me to try and draw up a scematic!
@@DJDAudio The problem turned out to be a bad stop relay. Thanks for your videos and website.
I found your channel over 9 years ago because I was helping my brother make his RC lawnmower.
Glad you found the Channel! I have a lot of new content I am working on getting published soon.
Give those black screws some orange paint and they will be even more hidden. Awesome project though!!!
Good idea! Thank you.
Very interesting breakdown, I just purchased a Model S and could not figure out what the Tab system was for, so thank you! I am curious if you have any advice for restoration? It would appear that my shift system is not functional. Besides that, everything is just a little gummed up, but I am getting it to work through use.
Thanks for the kind words! The tab system is interesting and complex! As for the shift, there are 3 points of 'pivot' or links that make the carage 'lift' or shift up and gravity pulls it back down, as these gum up it make the 'up' and 'down' not work as smooth or fast as they should and the shift gets odd. On the bottom right and left side of the carrage are metal 'U' shaped bars, try to loosen the scre on those slightly maybe a half turn. This may help get things moving. Also you can put some light machine oil on them joints and while lifting and pushing back down on the carage with one hand, push the shift button with the other to work the oil in and get it moving free again. Best of luck on your restoration! Take LOTS of pictures as you take thinks appart! trust me ha!
@@DJDAudio these machines are incredible! I fiddled around with some of the mechanics and the shift system came back to life! Also I don't know if you have any insight into why my letters are all capitals? My brief Google search claims that this may be military typeface! Exciting that this typewriter may have been used in WW2.
@@maxeffort325 So glad you got it working! You are beyond my knoledge here, but I can recomend this great group that would love to answer these! They get questions about odd typeface all the time! facebook.com/groups/4770669677
@@DJDAudio Thank you! I'll give them a message
Why is this video black and white? Also, a link to the software would have been nice.
Black and white was a choice to prevent against video auto tagging of the disk artwork. but that may just be me being paranoid! here is a link! www(dot)dbpoweramp(dot)com
great video. Thanks
One more thing. Car speedometer cables are calibrated to turn 1000 revs per mile. So 1000 rpm at the input would equal 60 mph. 500 rpm 30 mph etc.
Hey DJDAudio, Where is Quasi now? I’m talking about the robot. You know, the live host, Carnegie Science Center, Buhl Planetarium, Expedition: Solar system… Well, you get the idea!
I saw some of your other videos. Do you work at the Pittsburg Science Museum? Its a great place. I went there when I took a break from Rivers Casino.
I do! Good eye. Fun place to work as well!
If I ever go to Rivers again I'll have to stop by the museum. I'll check out your other videos again. Thanks.
I drove a cab with the same meter as this in 1970. The intial fare was 50 cents which was counted as a trip. It was then 10 cents or 1 unit every 1/5 of a mile. Waiting time was 6 dollars an hour or 10 cents or 1 unit per minute activated when the cab was stopped. Thanks for the memories!
How do you remove the case? I have the same adding machine but the paper holder prevents me from removing the case.
It is most odd, I just made a quick video for you to show you the process! ruclips.net/video/htaI32OrQtU/видео.htmlsi=KGcn4hizXQBoaR79
How did you initially release the vacuum?
I want to make into a solo type firepit
@@bob-owen I uploaded this Video to show how I did it, I removed the rubber cap, cleaned off the vacuum grease with a rag, than threaded in an Eye bolt that fit, 1/4-20 maybe. than pulled up to break the seal and let the air into the tank, this released the vacuum, and the plug came all the way out so you know it is now safe. NOTE: it will take around 14.7lbs of force to pull the plug out. ruclips.net/user/shortsExLtOBUM3J4?si=lRYzYkaV47J435MZ
At 07:04 The 4 coils are NOT for deflection. They are for beam alignment. The deflection is done later, well below the condenser coils.
I have since learned this as well, thank you much for the clerification!
At 04:07 To align the tungsten tip with the hole a light microscope is used. I did it with an Olympus stereo microscope when working for a SEM manufacturer. You only need a moderate magnification. There is no need to use an electron microscope.
Fantastic information, thank you! And that does make sense.
At 03:34 No need to be careful at all. The thing is clearly broken!
I notticed that in my photos, this could also be why they stopped using it!
Looks like a banjo connection
Units is Dollars
Total Dollars. So a cab driver would record Units in the beginning of their shift, and the end, incase the cab company pays them on commission. other cab companies would just essentially rent the cab to a driver for $XXX per day and whatever they collected, they would keep.
That's awesome.
Does it have wifi ??? 🙄
The FDA actually banned it because they claimed it could cure so many things. It does have therepeutic effect and isn't actually dangerous
Wow this is fascinating and beautiful, thanks for giving us a tour in such details. Hope we'll see a follow-up !
Thanks i have 4 systems for sale... if anyone needs them or needs parts let me know.. they are complete systems....
I have a very nice old Mueller I found in a antique store.. I wish I could tell you the year it was made but no date on it... When I was restoring it I had to replace the two small nozzles because they were both odd sizes and not two and a half inches but more like two and a quarter inch 🤔 Couldn't figure out why that was but I removed those nozzles and replaced them with a standard two and a half inch size! Had a hard time finding one's that would work but I'm pretty resorsful . This hydrant only has the name of Mueller, Chatta.Tenn., and 41/4"... As I mentioned,no date...
I have a 95 we found in the attic my grandma used all the time but she has since passed on and we can't figure out how to reset it. We thought we did but it won't reset. Any idea?
These can be tricky, one of the many hundreds of moving parts inside may be stuck or sticky! Depends how it is stuck, if the cranks goes all the way down and back up you just need to reset the total: On mine I have to hit just the 1 key far right side, crank it in, than hold down the TOTAL button with thump while pulling the crank down, than letting go with thumb as I continue the crank handle down, this will 'total out' the machine an clear the register! If the crank handle will not return, you may have a stuck key or too, you may need to try and push a few keys around the one that is down and try to work up the stuck one, this may free it up. If not you may have to pull the cover and look for anything caught in the mech, the old felt or old paper can get caught some times! Hope this helps!
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you will get full fans if you yank the AMM
Thank you for an excellent video! I think I get it now!
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Oh that's cool mate 😀
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Oh im so jealous 😂, thats awesome mate 😎
Truly awesome union of psychics and precision engineering, 😍, great presentation and explanation, thanks for sharing 😎 subbed 👍👍👍
I have an old Rockwell taxi meter in fairly good shape. 12 volt. Not a wind-up model. Has H41824 on the front. On the bottom is a 3 prong recessed male plug, presumable for connecting to the car power. There are 3 wires on the inside coming from this, Red, Black, and Yellow. I have a 12 volt power source I'd like to connect to see what happens but I'm not sure which prongs I should connect the 12V + and - to. Those 3 wires go to a Micro Switch with 5 terminals and other wires connected. The yellow wire goes to a connector labeled COMMON. The meter chassis itself could also be a ground since when I play around with continuity test on my multimeter I can get continuity sometimes. All confusing for me, sigh. The flag turns good and I tested the light bulbs and they are good too. So any help you could provide on connecting 12 volts, the + and -, (not in a car, just on my workbench) would be most appreciated.
@@DJDAudio Thanks!! I did some continuity tests and added the results to the link in the video description, not sure if you had a chance to look at them. My yellow goes to COMMON on the micro switch.
@@DJDAudio Took your kind advice and got some things working. Still have to figure how to fake the speedometer cable spinning. Anyhow- Thanks! Vid of it working a bit: ruclips.net/video/viw7dtUrjns/видео.htmlsi=E5WWHa-gfQismIl5
I learned from another video that the white mark is the put the typwriter into stencil mode. It was used to make copies on another machine.
This is great info, thank you for sharing!
Thanks.
Wait there are toilet paper claw machines???
I have never seen this done before. The only other time I've see single crystal solid nitrogen is when vast quantities of liquid helium are being played around with (ie. "wasted") to freeze it directly. The old video of this on here is now gone though. I'm not too interested in robots or electronics, but INTENSELY interested in fundamental physical science like this. Will you be adding more videos like this to the channel?
Thanks for input! I had never seen this before, and was amazing to discover it. I figure if I like it others will too, so I shared it! Yet to see this replicated on here though, would love to know if this is a normal result. In my research I found that solid nitrogen is an annoying byproduct of working with liquid helium ha! I do love to dabble in anything I find interesting, and I always have a love for the science extremes where there is still some 'unknown' or fun properties of mater to explore! So for sure will be doing more videos like this. I just built up a new rig for making my own liquid nitrogen in volume, you may like! www.djdlabs.com/liquid-nitrogen-maker/
@@DJDAudio Cool! then I will subscribe for more!
You've essentially created a spatial filter for the beam, I think.
Bummer you didn't dissemble it!
I wish I took a picture, There is almost nothing inside, there is a sealed metal box with wind up spring in it, two gears, and a metal wheel that spins with rotating hammers on it that strike the bell. The center pin pushes down to a friction pad to prevent it from spinning. I will have to take it apart again, and upload a photo to my website! Thanks for the suggestion!
@@DJDAudio We bought a dozen 35 years ago, always wondered, never had the guts to tear one apart because they'd all been wound up and the clatter they make will wake the unconscious.
So, are you repairing it or what?
This was a tough call on my part, the unit dates back to the 70's and is well past its serviceable lifespan. A replacement filament for this unit is also $500+ And they will not referb one if you do not have an expensive service contract with them. That and taking it apart and contaminating it like I did would mean months of decontamination and time to bake it out and pump it back down to a usable vacuum conditions. So I felt it was better served to take apart and be able to show the inside of this unit as an educational tool or entertainment for those who are curious. For not every day you get to rip open a million dollar machine just to explore for fun! I do plan to use parts of this in many other projects so it was by no means a waste of hardware! The last scope I took apart I used to make my own liquid nitrogen maker, and a fusor! Hope that helps explain my motivation for this! ... P.S. Part of the agreement for getting items like this is often that they can never be 'used as intended' again aka destroyed.
Wow! basically the backside of a CRT.. any plans to tear down a scanning tunneling mike?
Almost like a CRT engineer was given an unlimited budget ad told to have at it! ha! I have a lead on multiple machines, but these always have such long timelines and paperwork stacks to acquire lol The day I can get an entire scope I promise I will film the entire tear down to the very last bolt!